The Mod has been modified by user ideas so the latest easiest way is:I strongly recommend the N52te over the Razer Nostromo. The N52te is cheaper, works without drivers so will work fine with the XIM3 even special stuff. The Razer Nostromo will not!!!
Video with analog stick:
moving the stickhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HLE_llcyIE
The Borg Pedals in white socks:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vheRHy1ReKA
Do it at own risk I donīt take responsibility for your hardware.
First I will answer some questions:
Q:What must I be able to do?
A: You must be able to unscrew some screws and rescrew them when done, solder a wire to a soldering point, drill holes and dremel down some plastic. Thatís about all. You need an IQ of 50 to open a banana so an IQ of 80 should be enough.
Q: What is this good for?
This controller mod allows to duplicate the right or left thumbstick of the authentication controller to another device that doesn't have one like the Belkin N52te or the Razer Nostromo. This is a very useful in combination with a xim3.
Q: Can I still use my controller?
A: The right or left thumbstick is gone the rest works as before
Q: Why not use a G13?
A: The N52te can do a lot more than the G13 with the XIM3, the Nostromo can not its as dead as the G13 with the XIM3 concerning "magic".
Q: Why not use the XIM2 and a G13 on the XIM3 and it can do the same as the N52te?
A: No way will I run a PC and A XIM2 alongside a XIM3. I could strangle myself in cables or get nuts configuring.
Q: I am a WASD player do I need this?
Q: Why not the left stick?
A: The left stick is possible but you have to desolder the left trigger. As most games have a lefty setting the right stick will do fine. And a slight benefit, programmers tend to forget capping the autofire on the lefty setting. If you still want a left stick mod check in the replies.
Q: I cant make it as ugly as you did?
A: Very funnyNeeded tools:
Everything is available at Conrad.de for German readers
Soldering iron, I used 15W point tip / soldering tin, Kolophonium is nice. It has to be clean and well working.
hot glue, (epoxy not needed imho)Needed parts:
8-wire radio cable 100cm is tested working
2x 18mm M2 screws with female screws, 1x 14 or 16mm screw
Breakboard with single solderings
Potentiometer Joystick and fitting mushroom stick cap with downpress button 10K Ohm
The two orange boxes are the potentiometers and the left box is the push down button. So three feet each for the potentiometers and four for the pushdown. 4 feet holding the chassis. Buying a 6cord cable with a non pushdown stick would also be possible.
Step by Step:
- Open the controller, unsolder the potentiometer of the fire button and remove fire button, open the joysticks potentiometers and remove the drums, scratch the traces in the drums. Solder 8 wires to the stick for example Network cable (recommended length 1.5m). Solder the fire button back, Potentiometer has to slip in no pressure or you will damage the PCB of the controller.
- Fix a Joystick to a breakboard slightly bigger than it. Solder the wires to the 8 contacts. Test, if there is movement you have bad soldering.
- Remove the side of the N52te by removing the one screw below the D-pad under the rubber-pad. Cut the D-pad cable. Remove the screw that holds the two parts together, remove the D-pad. Dremel away the L-shaped platics between the four screw-legs. enlarge the hole for the stick by removing the small plastic dome for more joystick movement. Place the joystick-breakboard you built between four legs. One potentiometer up the other one to the left. Turn slightly left for perfect fit. Drill four holes in breakboard above the screw poles and fix it with M2 screws.
- Close the controller and the N52te.
Additional stuff you need:
- 6 light switches that are used in bathrooms they are closed and water resistant. Mine had nice clamps so solder-less there. Double clamps allowed me to bring the red wire from switch to switch)
- 2,3,4,5cm M4 screws with plates and female screws. You need several lengths as you dont know what will fit the housing of the switches.
- 5m nice looking thick and soft 6 wire cable (wires should be at least 0.5mm)
- 1m 2x20 mm aluminium rod
- metal saw to cut the rod
- A drill to drill holes into the Aluminium plate start as small as possible and make the hole larger each step up to M4.
- shrink tubes for the cables between the switches.
- connector 6 pole you really want to make this detachable or you will transport an Octopus from place to place.
- Foot rest to mount the thing. I bought a Fellowes FuŖstŁtze Microban 8035001, dunno if its good yet.
6 Buttons are lost by the mod above and there is really not an inch where you can put an additional D-Pad# + the one button above. I got the idea from the Geekhack forum, they did some footcontrols and the handicapped thread here in the forum. What I dont like is to move the foot or fingers, I think itís a great advantage of gamepads that you can have them in place all the time and not risk missing a key and taking the keyswitch delay.
I am not opening a new thread for this as its fast and easy. The 6 wire ribbon you have cut, attack a 6 wire cable to it bring it out of the N52te and attach 5 pedals to it. AS you can see I have no heatpistol so matches had to do. The pedals in my case are switches that are mounted on wall not in the wall so they have a closed case.
The coding of the cables is easy. Each of the 5 wires is connected to the red 6th wire.
Red wire+ 1- 4th wire (far away from red other side) = D-Pad
Red wire + 5th wire (next to red) is the button above the D-pad
x x x x x x(red)
° ° ° ° ° ----° Key above d-pad
° ° ° °----------° D-pad left
° ° °---------------° D-pad right
° °--------------------° D-pad down
°--------------------------° D-pad up
I suggest you make it detachable its enough the controller and the N52te are always together.
Buy a 1m 20x2mm aluminium rod. The rod can just be bent by hand but will retain its form and be quite strong. Bend it lower, half as high, as I did or you will have to lift your foothead high to press the button.
Cables could be mounted below the footplate but I liked the Borgstyle.